During my last install segment, when I focused on the intake side of my engine, I failed to mention that I had broke off the over flow nipple on my radiator. I tried in vain to glue it back on, but the pressure and heat put an end to that right away. I started to think that since this little part broke so easily that perhaps the rest of the 15 year old plastic parts of the radiator might be next. That would leave me stranded at the track or worse in the California desert somewhere.
As per usual with my site, I don’t want to go into too much detail about the install, I just want to show a few tricks or hints I figured out. The install starts with draining the old radiator, there is no need to remove the lower valences, just stick a pan under to catch wherever it comes out.
Unbolt the top supports of the radiator from the body and the air conditioner line can be just slide out of the way like the picture above. The hose clamps just need to be pinched and slide further up the hose. The wires connecting the fans can be unclipped. Just be careful not to brake the plastic, the heat makes them brittle.
Once the fan connections are unclipped you can leave the fan/radiator combo up. I never knew the fans on the integra were two pieces until now. The fans shrouds can be unbolted at this time and transferred to the new radiator. I gave mine a good cleaning before installing.
The drain for the engine just takes a few attachments and a breaker bar and it comes right off, just make sure you have a bucket underneath the car.
I replaced the factory radiator for a Koyo racing series one. It is 40% larger and has no plastic end caps to crack. It fits perfectly in the factory spot with the same factory connectors and even the OEM rubber feet fit right back on. It had all the bosses to mount the factory fans up to it. I will say that it did not come with a cap! You have to purchase one separately, I read that a cap from a chevy will fit but I didn’t verify this, and just bought the upgraded Koyo cap.
I replaced the OEM hoses with Skunk2 silicone ones, they are stronger and should outlast the car.
With the fans cleaned, bolted back up and the lower hose installed I just slid the radiator into it’s home and reversed the install process.
The last step was to change the thermostat and it’s gasket. The factory one is set to open at 180 degrees, the new one will open 10 degrees cooler to give me a little extra security I also replaced the temperature sensor while I was in there. Once all the new parts were installed I filled the radiator up with distilled water and Redline water wetter. Soon after I had a chance to test the car at a track event but it was rained out. The car performed just as it did stock with no problems even after sitting in California traffic.